Credit card debt is one of the most expensive forms of borrowing that American consumers face. According to the Federal Reserve, the average credit card interest rate now hovers around 20% APR — a figure that can make even a modest balance snowball into something unmanageable if left unchecked. The good news? With a targeted budget and disciplined execution, it is possible to pay off credit card debt much faster than most people expect.
This guide walks you through how to create a budget that prioritizes debt repayment, all while keeping your financial life functional — meaning you don’t have to live on ramen noodles unless you really want to.
Step 1: Get Clear on the Damage
You cannot fix what you don’t measure. Pull your most recent credit card statements and list:
If you have multiple cards, this is when you decide on a strategy. The debt avalanche method — paying off the highest-interest card first while making minimum payments on others — will save you the most money in interest. The debt snowball method — paying off the smallest balance first — provides psychological wins faster. For a more in-depth comparison, see NerdWallet’s breakdown.
Step 2: Build a Realistic Spending Plan
This is where budgeting comes in. To pay off debt fast, you must spend less than you earn, but not in a vague “I’ll try harder” way — in a planned, measurable way.
A proven approach is the Zero-Based Budget: every single dollar you earn is assigned a job, including debt repayment. If you make $4,500 a month after taxes, and your essential bills take $3,200, you decide exactly how the remaining $1,300 will be split between debt, savings, and discretionary spending.
The target for fast credit card payoff? At least 20–40% of your take-home pay directed to debt. That means cutting other categories aggressively for a temporary period.
Step 3: Cut, Pause, and Redirect
The truth is, big progress comes from big changes. If your budget doesn’t produce a large debt repayment amount, you’ll need to:
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Cut non-essentials: Pause streaming subscriptions, reduce dining out, delay vacation plans.
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Negotiate bills: Call your internet and insurance providers to request lower rates or promotions.
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Lower housing costs temporarily: Consider a roommate, sublet a room, or downsize if possible.
Even an extra $200 per month toward your credit card can knock months off your payoff timeline. For a clear calculator on savings from extra payments, see Bankrate’s credit card payoff calculator.
Step 4: Set Up a Debt-Only Bank Account
One budgeting hack I’ve seen work wonders is opening a separate checking account just for debt payments. Each payday, you transfer your planned debt repayment amount into that account immediately. This reduces the temptation to “accidentally” spend the money elsewhere.
Think of it as your own personal debt demolition fund — once it’s in there, it’s already spent on killing debt.
Step 5: Track and Adjust Weekly
Most people check their budget once a month. That’s too slow when you’re trying to move fast.
Check your spending weekly to make sure you’re staying within your cut-down categories. If you overspend in one area, immediately shift funds from another to cover it without touching your debt payment. This keeps your progress intact.
Step 6: Avoid New Debt at All Costs
It sounds obvious, but paying off credit card debt while still using credit cards heavily is like trying to drain a bathtub with the faucet still running.
If possible, switch recurring bills to a debit card or checking account. Use cash for discretionary purchases. If you must use a credit card (for travel booking or security deposits), pay the charge off immediately before it accrues interest.
Step 7: Celebrate Milestones
Budgeting for debt payoff is intense work. When you knock out a card or hit a major balance reduction milestone, mark it. Treat yourself — but within reason and within budget. Small rewards help keep motivation high without sabotaging progress.
Why This Works
Budgeting works for debt payoff because it forces you to prioritize. Without a budget, extra income and windfalls tend to vanish into “life stuff” without making a dent in debt. With a targeted, aggressive budget, your money gets funneled straight into reducing your balances — and the momentum builds month after month.
The process is simple but not easy: track every dollar, direct as much as possible to debt, and resist the pull of lifestyle creep until you’re free.
Final Thought
Credit card debt payoff is one of the highest-return investments you can make. Paying off a card at 20% APR is like getting a guaranteed, risk-free 20% return on your money — something the stock market can’t reliably match.
A well-structured budget is the tool that makes that happen. The sooner you start, the sooner those high-interest payments stop draining your future wealth.
Credit Card Debt Payoff Budget Worksheet
Use this simple, targeted budgeting template to organize your finances, track your progress, and speed up your credit card debt payoff.
Step 1: List Your Credit Card Balances
| Credit Card Name |
Balance ($) |
APR (%) |
Minimum Payment ($) |
Target Payment ($) |
| Example: Chase Freedom |
5,200 |
21.9 |
135 |
400 |
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| Totals |
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Step 2: Monthly Income Overview
| Income Source |
Amount ($) |
| Salary (After Tax) |
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| Side Hustle Income |
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| Other Income |
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| Total Income |
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Step 3: Essential Expenses
| Category |
Amount ($) |
| Rent / Mortgage |
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| Utilities (Electric, Water, Gas) |
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| Internet & Phone |
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| Groceries |
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| Transportation |
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| Insurance (Auto, Health, etc.) |
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| Childcare / Education |
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| Total Essentials |
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Step 4: Discretionary Spending (Cut or Reduce)
| Category |
Current Spend ($) |
New Budget ($) |
| Dining Out |
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| Entertainment |
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| Subscriptions |
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| Shopping |
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| Total |
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Step 5: Debt Repayment Plan
Available for Debt Repayment = Total Income – (Essential + New Discretionary Spending)
| Month |
Planned Payment ($) |
Actual Payment ($) |
New Balance ($) |
| 1 |
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| 2 |
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| 3 |
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| ... |
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Step 6: Progress Tracker
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Starting Total Debt: $
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Current Total Debt: $
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Debt Paid Off (%):
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Target Payoff Date:
How to Use This Worksheet Effectively
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Fill in your actual current numbers honestly — no rounding down to make yourself feel better.
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Decide whether you’ll use the avalanche method (highest APR first) or snowball method (smallest balance first) to set your “Target Payment” amounts.
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Review weekly, not monthly. The more often you adjust, the faster you course-correct.
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Reinvest freed-up payments from paid-off cards into your remaining balances.
For a calculator that shows exactly how much faster you can be debt-free by increasing payments, check out Bankrate’s Credit Card Payoff Calculator.
Why This Worksheet Works
This budgeting approach eliminates “leftover money” thinking. Instead of waiting to see what’s left at the end of the month, you assign every dollar a job at the start — and a large portion of those jobs are “kill credit card debt.”
The act of writing (or typing) your numbers every month keeps you accountable and makes progress visible — a major motivation booster.
Why Paying Off Credit Card Debt Should Be Your #1 Priority
If you’ve ever sat down with a spreadsheet of your debts — mortgage, student loans, auto loans, and those pesky credit cards — you’ve probably asked yourself: Which one should I attack first? While personal finance isn’t always one-size-fits-all, there’s a compelling case — backed by math, psychology, and financial risk management — that credit card debt should sit at the very top of your payoff list.
1. Credit Card Interest Rates Are Brutally High
The average U.S. credit card annual percentage rate (APR) is currently hovering around 21% to 28% — a number that makes most other debt look tame by comparison.
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Mortgages average 6–7% APR.
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Auto loans hover around 5–8%.
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Federal student loans are often between 4–6% for older borrowers and 5–7% for newer loans.
Here’s the math: If you owe $10,000 on a credit card at 22% APR and only pay the minimum, you could be stuck paying for 20+ years and shell out thousands in interest. Every month you delay paying it down is essentially throwing money into the lender’s pocket with no return.
📌 Financial Reality Check: No legitimate investment can reliably earn you 22% annually, so keeping that debt while trying to “invest your way out” rarely works.
For a deeper look at national APR trends, you can check the Federal Reserve’s consumer credit data.
2. It’s the Most Expensive Form of Unsecured Debt
Unlike a mortgage or auto loan, which are secured debts backed by collateral (house or car), credit card debt is unsecured — meaning there’s nothing for the lender to repossess if you default. This lack of security is one reason credit cards carry such high rates: lenders offset their risk by charging more.
For you, the borrower, this means your balance can balloon quickly if you’re not aggressively paying it down. Every month you delay, compound interest keeps working against you.
3. Credit Card Debt Hurts Your Credit Score More Than You Think
Your credit utilization ratio — the percentage of available credit you’re using — makes up 30% of your FICO score. If you have $15,000 in total available credit and you’re carrying $12,000 in balances, your utilization is a sky-high 80%.
High utilization:
Paying down credit cards quickly brings that utilization number down, which can dramatically boost your score in as little as 30–60 days.
You can explore how utilization impacts scores on myFICO’s official guide.
4. Variable Rates Mean Your Payments Can Skyrocket
Most credit cards have variable APRs tied to the prime rate. When the Federal Reserve raises interest rates — as it has done multiple times in recent years — your card’s interest rate can climb within one or two billing cycles.
That means:
This unpredictability makes credit card debt more dangerous than fixed-rate debts like most mortgages or student loans.
5. Other Debts Often Have Built-in Protections
Certain debts come with benefits that credit cards simply don’t offer:
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Federal student loans may qualify for income-driven repayment plans, deferment, or forgiveness.
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Mortgages can be refinanced for a lower rate, potentially lowering monthly costs.
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Auto loans can sometimes be refinanced or negotiated with the lender.
Credit card lenders? They typically offer none of these relief measures unless you negotiate a hardship plan — and even then, interest reductions are limited and temporary.
6. Emotional and Mental Relief is Priceless
Living with credit card debt often feels heavier than other debts because:
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It’s a constant reminder every time you swipe
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Statements arrive monthly, highlighting the balance in bold
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The payoff timeline can feel endless
By tackling it first, you give yourself immediate wins:
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Cash flow relief from lower monthly obligations
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Stress reduction knowing high-interest balances are shrinking
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Momentum to tackle other debts with more money freed up
7. The Compounding Effect Works Both Ways
When you carry credit card debt, compound interest works against you. When you pay it off, that same freed-up money can be redirected toward savings or investments — where compound interest starts working for you.
Example:
Paying off a $7,000 card at 22% APR frees up $250/month. If you then invest that $250 in an S&P 500 index fund averaging 8% annual returns, in 20 years you could have over $147,000 — all because you killed the high-interest debt first.
The Bottom Line
Paying off credit card debt before other debts isn’t just a good idea — it’s often the only mathematically sound move. While it’s tempting to chip away at multiple debts evenly, the cost of carrying credit card balances is too high to ignore. Once those cards are clear, you can turn your attention — and your freed-up cash flow — toward lower-interest debts, investments, and building long-term wealth.
Debt Priority Pyramid
How to Read the Pyramid
Think of the pyramid like a debt danger scale. The closer you get to the bottom, the more urgent the payoff. The reasoning is rooted in interest cost, risk exposure, and financial flexibility.
Level 1 – High-Interest Credit Card Debt (Top Priority)
This sits at the base because it’s the most expensive and the most financially dangerous type of debt.
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Why it’s urgent: APRs often exceed 22%, and interest compounds quickly.
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Example: A $10,000 balance could cost $2,200+ in interest per year if unpaid.
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Goal: Pay this down as aggressively as possible before focusing elsewhere.
📎 Reference: Federal Reserve G.19 Credit Card Rates
Level 2 – Variable-Rate Debts & Lines of Credit
These are debts whose interest rates can change without much warning, often tied to the prime rate.
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Examples: Home equity lines of credit (HELOCs), certain private student loans, some business lines.
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Why they’re next: Rising interest rates can quickly push them into credit card territory in terms of cost.
📎 Reference: Bankrate: How Fed rate hikes impact borrowers
Level 3 – Higher-Interest Personal Loans or Store Financing
Store credit cards and “buy now, pay later” plans often hide high penalty rates if you miss a payment or fail to pay off in a promotional period.
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Why they’re dangerous: They often lure borrowers with low intro rates, then jump to 20–30% if terms are not met.
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Example: A $1,200 furniture purchase at “0% for 12 months” could revert to 24.99% if even one payment is late.
Level 4 – Moderate-Interest Secured Debt
Auto loans and certain personal loans often fall here.
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Why they rank lower: They’re secured by collateral (car, etc.) and typically carry rates in the 5–8% range.
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Strategy: Pay these off steadily while keeping higher-interest debt as the main focus.
Level 5 – Low-Interest, Fixed-Rate Debt
Mortgages and refinanced student loans often fall here.
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Why last: They’re predictable, usually have lower rates, and may carry tax benefits.
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Example: A 30-year fixed mortgage at 5.75% APR is cheaper to keep paying while your money works harder elsewhere (investments, emergency fund).
How to Apply the Pyramid in Real Life
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List all debts with balances, interest rates, and whether they’re fixed or variable.
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Rank them according to the pyramid — not just by balance size.
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Attack Level 1 first, making minimum payments on others until it’s gone.
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Roll payments downward (debt snowball or avalanche method) through each level.
This method ensures you’re paying off the most financially harmful debts first, while maintaining stability with lower-cost debts.
Debt Priority Pyramid: Recap for Context
The concept of the Debt Priority Pyramid is simple:
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High-priority debts are those with the highest interest rates, legal consequences, or immediate impact on your livelihood and credit.
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Medium-priority debts have lower rates or less urgent consequences but still cost money over time.
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Low-priority debts have the smallest interest cost or the longest repayment timeline.
The goal is to focus payments from the top of the pyramid down, while making at least the minimum payment on all debts to avoid penalties.
Case Study 1 – Gen Z Tech Worker With Side Hustle
Profile:
Application:
Using the pyramid, the credit card debt is at the very top — it’s draining hundreds per month in interest. This Gen Z worker allocates $1,200/month toward the credit card, while paying minimums on the student loan ($220) and car loan ($300).
Once the card is paid off in roughly 5 months, the freed-up $1,200 gets rolled into the car loan payment, finishing it in under a year. The student loan then becomes the last focus.
Why it works for Gen Z:
Case Study 2 – Millennial Single Parent
Profile:
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Age: 35
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Location: Denver, Colorado
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Income: $3,800/month (administrative role + child support)
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Debt:
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$3,000 overdue medical bill in collections (High Priority — legal/credit risk)
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$6,500 credit card at 21% APR (High Priority)
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$14,000 student loan at 4.5% APR (Medium Priority)
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$1,200 owed to family (Low Priority)
Application:
Collections debt is addressed first because it’s hurting her credit score, which could impact renting and utilities. She negotiates a settlement to pay it off in 3 months. Next, she diverts the same funds to the credit card, wiping it in about 7 months.
Student loans get only minimum payments until the higher-impact debts are gone. The family debt, while important, carries no interest or legal pressure, so it’s addressed last.
Why it works for Millennials:
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Millennials are more likely than Gen Z to have collections accounts or long-standing student debt.
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Clearing the most urgent debts first helps with long-term stability, credit rebuilding, and lower living costs.
Case Study 3 – Gen Z Graduate Starting Out
Profile:
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Age: 22
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Location: Chicago, Illinois
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Income: $3,200/month (entry-level marketing role)
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Debt:
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$1,800 BNPL (Buy Now, Pay Later) debt across multiple accounts at ~18–24% APR (High Priority)
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$10,000 private student loan at 7% APR (Medium Priority)
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$3,500 car repair loan at 12% APR (High Priority)
Application:
BNPL debt gets top billing because of its high APR and the risk of rapidly increasing balances due to late fees. The car repair loan, with double-digit interest, is tackled next. Only after these are clear does the student loan become the main focus.
Why it works for Gen Z:
Case Study 4 – Millennial Dual-Income Couple
Profile:
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Age: 39 & 37
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia
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Household Income: $8,000/month
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Debt:
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$9,000 credit card debt at 20% APR (High Priority)
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$300,000 mortgage at 3.25% APR (Low Priority)
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$15,000 personal loan at 10% APR (Medium Priority)
Application:
The credit card is paid off in 6 months by cutting back on discretionary spending and allocating $1,500/month toward it. Then, the personal loan becomes the target. The mortgage — while large — is low-interest and long-term, making it the lowest priority.
Why it works for Millennials:
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Many older Millennials own homes but still carry high-interest debt from emergencies or overspending.
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Paying down high-interest consumer debt first has a far bigger impact on wealth than accelerating a cheap mortgage.
Key Insights Across Generations
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Gen Z Strategy Trends: Focus on avoiding traps like BNPL, store cards, and high-fee credit cards. They often have smaller balances but riskier interest structures.
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Millennial Strategy Trends: Manage the mix of large, low-interest “life debts” (mortgages, student loans) alongside smaller but more expensive consumer debt.
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Shared Principle: Always address debts that either grow the fastest (high APR) or harm stability (collections, legal risk) before low-cost, long-term ones.
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